Steve House released a podcast talking about how Everest is more like running a road marathon than a climbing challenge but there are lots of routes and mountains. Commercialization only really impacts climbers that need the easy way up to the summit. Would be super interesting to hear you and Steve House discuss this. Both of you had climbing careers based on the same values and ethics but the Everest circus is probably a big part of his business now. That would be an epic podcast!
Steve and I have tentatively planned to get together for a talk this year and the topic may come up, but it may not — we have a lot of other ground to cover. That said I don't agree that the commercialization only affects one particular group of people interested in one particular activity and one temporal window. I believe it is symptomatic of a broader trend in human behavior, and it impacts people who aren't climbers and activities outside of climbing.
The physiology of the "tricks" employed are interesting, for sure. But my head is exploding pondering where the line is drawn. Looking at the Youtube video of BC had my jaw on the floor. The immaculate espresso stand says it all. I was also blown away by the cheer number at BC. Where is all the human shit going?? I've been in the Khumbu several times. Walking from Lukla was a given and part of the experience. Flying over it all is just bizarre, but not nearly as strange as the cue up to C3.
Mark, thank you for your thoughtful article. Like you it's taken me a while to know what the latest Everest news makes me feel. I agree with your sentiments. I would go further and suggest that this feels very much like a summit for 2025. By that, an embodiment of the 'attention economy' that has overtaken our lives. Any achievement is set against the jarring backdrop of war, genocide and planetary breakdown. It's Nero fiddling while (Rome) the planet burns ...?
Thanks for the article and discussion. I’m old and jaded about the current state of commercial high altitude climbing. But I’m thankful to have been able to try Makalu as part of a 4 person team w/out Os in 1990. What’s the source of the quote that 50% of clients are using Dex above C3? Never would have guessed it would be that high.
Good on you for giving Makalu a go without supplemental O2. Regarding the source of the quote, I have in my notes (from 2013-ish if memory serves) the following sentence, and it's in quotation marks in said notes but I don't have the source cited for some reason, "One Everest guide told me three out of every four clients ask him about using dex. And Everest ER doc Eric Johnson said he thinks at least 50% are using it above C3."
There's a good discussion on the paid subscriber side about this article and the video monologue I recorded on the topic.
Steve House released a podcast talking about how Everest is more like running a road marathon than a climbing challenge but there are lots of routes and mountains. Commercialization only really impacts climbers that need the easy way up to the summit. Would be super interesting to hear you and Steve House discuss this. Both of you had climbing careers based on the same values and ethics but the Everest circus is probably a big part of his business now. That would be an epic podcast!
Steve and I have tentatively planned to get together for a talk this year and the topic may come up, but it may not — we have a lot of other ground to cover. That said I don't agree that the commercialization only affects one particular group of people interested in one particular activity and one temporal window. I believe it is symptomatic of a broader trend in human behavior, and it impacts people who aren't climbers and activities outside of climbing.
Awesome. Glad to hear a talk between you and Steve is in the works. Totally understand you have lots of ground to cover. Looking forward to it!
The physiology of the "tricks" employed are interesting, for sure. But my head is exploding pondering where the line is drawn. Looking at the Youtube video of BC had my jaw on the floor. The immaculate espresso stand says it all. I was also blown away by the cheer number at BC. Where is all the human shit going?? I've been in the Khumbu several times. Walking from Lukla was a given and part of the experience. Flying over it all is just bizarre, but not nearly as strange as the cue up to C3.
Indeed, it's tough for us, who have experienced those places in simpler times, to see the over-civilization of them become normal.
Do you suppose they shouted, “Strava!” to move people out of the way on the fixed lines?
Mark, thank you for your thoughtful article. Like you it's taken me a while to know what the latest Everest news makes me feel. I agree with your sentiments. I would go further and suggest that this feels very much like a summit for 2025. By that, an embodiment of the 'attention economy' that has overtaken our lives. Any achievement is set against the jarring backdrop of war, genocide and planetary breakdown. It's Nero fiddling while (Rome) the planet burns ...?
Thanks for the article and discussion. I’m old and jaded about the current state of commercial high altitude climbing. But I’m thankful to have been able to try Makalu as part of a 4 person team w/out Os in 1990. What’s the source of the quote that 50% of clients are using Dex above C3? Never would have guessed it would be that high.
Good on you for giving Makalu a go without supplemental O2. Regarding the source of the quote, I have in my notes (from 2013-ish if memory serves) the following sentence, and it's in quotation marks in said notes but I don't have the source cited for some reason, "One Everest guide told me three out of every four clients ask him about using dex. And Everest ER doc Eric Johnson said he thinks at least 50% are using it above C3."
Thanks for the follow up. And thanks again for the discussion.